How long have you been a tour guide?
Three years with interruptions of several months to facilitate moving from the west coast and to avoid the summers here in Charleston. We had a vacation home here that had been the center of family reunions for several years. My wife, Wanda, was born in the South and when it came time for retirement in 2018, she wanted to return. I was more of a Western man, born in Nevada. My working life had been in California so I was ready for a different experience. The cultural and atmospheric change the South offered seemed a good fit. The American West doesn’t have the depth and breadth of history that Charleston does and so, on vacations I read extensively about Charleston history.
To understand what Charleston contributed to the American Experience, how and why it happened, is to see that experience in all its glories and flaws. I studied that history on vacations and when we made the decision to move, in a bit of serendipity, I took the city test to become a licensed Tour Guide. At the time it was required of any guide, carriage or walking. My years of vacation reading paid off and I passed the first time. Little did I realize that passing the test was simply the tip of a very large iceberg of historic knowledge and related lessons that could take the rest of my natural life, if I wanted.
What did you have to do to become a tour guide? Tour guides for the Carriage trade in Charleston must pass a 200-question test administered by the City by 80% to gain a license. It takes about 2 hours to complete. Due to a recent lawsuit, that license isn’t mandatory. The Carriage and other Walking Tour companies have voluntarily maintained that requirement as a way to guarantee a minimal standard for Tour Guides. I then applied to Old South Carriage Company. After you’re engaged by a carriage company, there will be about 3 to 6 weeks of training with horse and carriage until you’re cut loose on the city by yourself.
In my arrogance of passing the test so easily, I boldly predicted I would be ready in 2 weeks. It took every second of 6 weeks of training until I was ready to drive the horses, keep the clients safe, and give a tour at the same time. And even then, in the beginning, I wasn’t very good.
How often do you guide tours?
I’ll work between 2 and 5 days a week. I’ll give between 3 and 5 tours in a normal shift. My record is 9 tours in a 10-hour period. That was a long day.
There are a total of 10 possible Carriage tours in 5 tour zones as defined by the city. The City of Charleston will give a carriage a permit to enter a zone at a particular point and exit at a particular point, based on a lottery. In between, the carriage can do as it pleases within the zone. There are restricted streets for safety or privacy concerns. The permit is good for 70 minutes. Failure to abide by the City’s requirements can result in draconian fines to the driver.
Tell us a little bit about yourself. For instance, where were you born? How long have you lived in Charleston? What did you do before moving here? What do you and your wife, Wanda, enjoy doing?
As I said before, I was born in Nevada and spent most of my working life in California. I had a good career in the movie industry as a Picture Editor working with some of the biggest names in movies and TV. The essence of that job is to connect individual bits of information into a narrative that is dramatic and emotionally compelling. The personalities were sometimes temperamental and tyrannical and at times brilliant and insightful. I suppose that was good training for being a Tour Guide.
When retirement came, my wife, Wanda, wanted to return to the South. Some part of me will always be a Western man, an outsider. My favorite quote about the Western desert is from Wilfred Thesiger “No man can live this life and emerge unchanged. He will carry, however faint, the imprint of the desert, the brand which marks the nomad; and he will have within him the yearning to return, weak or insistent according to his nature. For this cruel land can cast a spell which no temperate clime can match.”.
But to appreciate, you must have contrast, and so, we moved from a place that is determined by the lack of water to a place that is determined by an overabundance of water.
As a retired couple, we have the luxury of not having to spend the summers in Charleston. My part of Show Business didn’t travel much so we hope to make up for that now. We have several trips on our wish list for the summers. We look forward to travel to various parts of Europe to work on our high school French, Spanish, and German. I also think that January will be a good time to be gone from Charleston, once Covid is over. We have a new house, but we still don’t have a garden plan. Wanda enjoys gardening.
We are still new to the area but look forward to the water sports and the unique cultural events that are available. I will miss snow skiing, but I might take up shooting again. We started continued education as senior citizens at the College of Charleston. I’m expanding my historic knowledge of this unique town constantly through lectures and research.
When you look at the history of Charleston, is there a particular time period or aspect of its’ history that you are drawn to more than others? It’s like choosing a favorite child. Charleston was pivotal in many chapters of our history but, coming from a place with only recent history, I’d have to say the colonial period is most interesting to me. The early days of the Colonies and how they grew in such a hostile environment, what they valued and why, the foresight, and bravery (and yes, the selective blindness) of those founding fathers of civilization and government is astounding. It’s remarkable partially because they weren’t living an easy life in the intellectual centers of Europe when they evolved our unique “American Experience” that became a sea change for humanity.
What do you do to keep in shape, so to speak, with your knowledge of the City? Weekly visits to the main library on Calhoun Street are a must. The SC History room is staffed by rabid history geeks that get their joy in life by running down ideas and connecting historic relationships. Mark Jones has a Facebook page that gives a “This day in Charleston History” reference that is always fun. Mark has written 9 books on Charleston including “Wicked Charleston”. The City makes the occasional lecture available to Tour Guides for ongoing education.
If a history buff was visiting Charleston for the first time, and they only had time to see or do three things, what would you recommend? I’m a big fan of Drayton Hall. It is a “preservation” site and as such, hasn’t been “restored”. So, the window trim may be original from the 1730’s and the ceiling may be from the 1880’s. You are looking at history in the raw. There are a lot of poignant moments in American history that happened on those grounds.
Any history buff would love to stand where General Beaurgard stood and gave the signal to start the bombardment of Fort Sumter. That can be done at the Edmonston-Alston house on East Battery. It’s a wonderfully “restored” museum home with most of its original furniture including pieces borrowed and never returned from the Drayton’s whose townhouse was next door.
I don’t want to be too pedestrian, but the City of Charleston Museum is the oldest museum in the New World and would give one an extensive overview of our history. And, as I like to point out to tourists with little ones, children can get lost in there for hours!! (And lunch on King Street is a half block away…just say’n.)
Have you ever had a supposed history expert on a tour that challenged you? Misinformation and myth are plentiful in Charleston so I offer a $10 prize, per incident, to anyone that can prove I’ve said something that isn’t true. However, I require that the challenger put up $10 also. (jokes don’t count). That sorts out the “ribbon clerks”, as they say.
That being said, I’ve had many clients that have added to my knowledge in a detail or a relevant bit of information that I didn’t have. One day, I had a Civil Engineer that gave me 10 minutes on why the earthquake reinforcement bars don’t work. I always make it available for anyone to correct my French pronunciation.
A few times people will offer myth or misinformation that they had heard elsewhere. Correction is a delicate thing. You must assume, they believed what they said and offered it with the best intentions.
Has how you see the world changed over the years as a result of what you have learned as a tour guide? I’d like to think that it has added more tolerance to my view of the world. As we get older, I think most people see the wisdom of forgiveness and tolerance in the world. To be pressed to study, in detail, triumphs and disasters of people that were so important to our evolution as a country and then having to actively find ways to communicate it clearly, with humor and insight, in a short time, burns it into the psychic. You can’t ignore what you see in history, for good or evil.
If someone wanted to book you for a tour, how can they reach you?
Walking tours of 90 minutes or more are available.
Email or phone is best.
Email: BLDHORSE@aol.com
Phone: 818-952-9571